![]() The procedure is explained and demonstrated in this video: It needs to tilt enough that you can easily get a screwdriver in there without marring your pickguard. Essentially, you loosen the neck bolts enough that you can tilt the neck back in the pocket–enough that the truss rod bolt is fully exposed and accessible with a screwdriver. You don’t have to completely remove the neck to adjust the truss rod on a vintage Strat, but you do have to at least loosen it. If there is, the radius gauge will let you know, and then you can start exploring ways to shim the saddles to get a closer match with the fretboard. I wouldn’t worry about it too much unless you’re having a persistent problem with your setup or you otherwise suspect there’s a mismatch between the radius in the bridge saddles and the radius of the neck. But again, there are exceptions… even coming from the factory. you didn’t do an aftermarket install or tremolo swap), it’s probably spot-on or at least pretty dang close. Chances are, if your guitar came with that trem from the factory (e.g. So, to answer your other question, yes you could use a radius gauge to check the radius of your tremolo’s saddles if you suspect that they’re not correct. That’s why bridge saddle shims exist.Īn excellent article on this topic was written by luthier Gerry Hayes (who has a kick-butt guitar blog of his own). Now, in a perfect world, that built-in radius would always match your guitar’s fretboard exactly, but that’s not always the case. You can’t adjust them on-the-fly via any screws or hex bolts. In other words, each saddle has been machined at a different height to create the radius. ![]() Most Floyd-style trems have the radius “built in” to the saddles. You’re correct that the individual saddle heights are not adjustable–not in the traditional sense, anyway. ![]()
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